Migration Road Trip – East from Houston

This is the first of four posts about our spring migration road trip across the upper Gulf Coast, towards Alabama.

April 3rd – 14th, 2024 ~ Our anniversary is in early April, and we decided to celebrate with a road trip to Dauphin Island, Alabama, a location known for its numerous birding opportunities, located right on the coast, at the mouth of Mobile Bay.

Stops along our Migration Road Trip to Dauphin Island, Alabama

I planned our travel to allow exploring at additional birding locations between Houston and Dauphin Island. We planned stops at Sabine Woods, near Port Arthur, Texas; at Peveto Woods along a relatively isolated coastline just inside the Louisiana border; at Big Branch Marsh NWR near New Orleans, Louisiana; and finally, we would stay several days on Dauphin Island, Alabama.

Friends of this blog have recommended several of these locations, and eBird shows them as highly productive, with hundreds of species being identified each year. They have several things in common. They are the first stop for birds migrating north in the spring, following the Central and Mississippi Flyways, paths from South and Central America, up through Mexico or across the Gulf of Mexico and then across the continental US. They offer food, water, shelter and safe resting spots. They are typically isolated from industry, quiet sanctuaries. Let the adventure begin!

Graceful Willet showing hint of black secondaries
1/3200 sec. f/7.1 ISO 800
Nikon D850 with Nikkor 600mm f/4 + 1.4x TC (850mm total)

In Port Arthur, Texas, I took an evening drive along South Levee Road, a long straight suggestion of a road along the edge of Pleasure Island. The narrow track runs alongside the heavy piles of stone and concrete that protect the edge of the island. Two Willets, Tringa semipalmata, posed for me (or, more likely, for each other) several times, up on the breakwater, facing into the afternoon sun. Willets do migrate, and some cover very long distances, but there is a population that stays along the upper Gulf Coast year-round; I suspect these two may have been among the permanent residents. (Range maps are at the bottom of this post.)

Savannah Sparrow, all fluffed up
1/3200 sec. f/7.1 ISO 800
Nikon D850 with Nikkor 600mm f/4 + 1.4x TC (850mm total)

Levee Road ended at Jared N. Logan Park, the first real parking spot I’d seen. I found this Savannah Sparrow, Passerculus sandwichensis, chasing bugs among the purple vetch. He could have spent the winter here along the coast, or in Mexico, but was headed for breeding grounds that spread from east coast to west coast across Canada and the northern US.

Savannah Sparrow among tendrils of vetch
1/3200 sec. f/7.1 ISO 800
Nikon D850 with Nikkor 600mm f/4 + 1.4x TC (850mm total)

The vetch was growing along a fence, out of reach of the mowers, and this narrow patch must have been rife with bugs. The sparrow stayed 10 feet in front of me, flying in and out of the tangled plants, as I walked along the lawn. Birds have the interesting ability to add and use body fat without impacting the function of other organs; they typically increase their body weight by 20% to 30% between segments of their migratory flight, then use that fuel on the next leg of their journey. I wondered whether this little guy was adding fat, or just trying to intimidate me with his impressive size?

Map from “Geology of the Chenier Plain of Cameron Parish, southwestern Louisiana”, by Donald E Owen, published by The Geological Society of America.

Sabine Woods Sanctuary, a project of the Texas Ornithological Society, is located just inside the Texas – Louisiana border, south of Port Arthur. It occupies 27 acres along TX-87 on a chenier ridge, approximately one mile inland from the coast. It is a delightful environment, and the air is alive with birdsong.

The word “chenier” is a Cajun-French word meaning “place of oaks”, and it was given to this Acadian strandplain by the early Cajun-French settlers. Louisianans pronounce it variously as “shin-ear” or “shen-year” or “shinny”, or “shen-yay”. The Live Oaks at Sabine Woods could easily be 100 – 150 years old; from photos online, there are a few oaks in the Louisiana chenier woodlands that could be over 500 years old. These massive trees have survived some serious hurricanes over the centuries.

A strand plain, or strandplain, is a broad belt of sand along a shoreline with a surface exhibiting well-defined parallel or semi-parallel sand ridges separated by shallow swales. Strand plains typically are created by the redistribution via waves and longshore currents of coarse sediment on either side of a river mouth. The ridges are typically 3 to 20 feet high, hundreds of feet wide, and several miles long. They are often wooded. Strand plains typically occur along shorelines characterized by generally low wave energy, low gradient, muddy shorelines, and abundant sediment supply, in this case, from the Sabine Pass waterway. I found the geography fascinating.

Adult male Hooded Warbler in breeding colors
1/2500 sec. f/5.6 ISO 2000
Nikon D850 with Nikkor 600mm f/4 + 1.4x TC (850mm total)

A Hooded Warbler, Setophaga citrina, was busy hunting for insects along a moldering log. This is an adult male, in breeding colors. He is just resting here along the coast, headed for his breeding grounds in the eastern half of the United States.

Hooded Warbler flicks his tail for bugs
1/2500 sec. f/5.6 ISO 2000
Nikon D850 with Nikkor 600mm f/4 + 1.4x TC (850mm total)

I was tickled to get a photo of him flicking his white tail feathers. The Hooded Warbler will hop from one perch to another in the shrubby understory, flicking his tail continuously to startle bugs into motion. A Pennsylvanian study temporarily darkened the tail feathers of some Hooded Warblers and then compared their hunting success with non-darkened birds. The birds with white tail feathers were more successful at catching insects than those with darkened tails.

Checking. Every. Single. Branch.
1/1600 sec f/5.6 ISO 2500
Nikon D850 with Nikkor 600mm f/4 + 1.4x TC (850mm total)

I sat and watched him for about 30 minutes. He left no branch unchecked for bugs, flitting back and forth, up and down, within a volume of roughly 30 feet, cubed.

Spotted Sandpiper at Sea Rim State Park
1/2500 sec. f/6.3 ISO 640
Nikon D850 with Nikkor 600mm f/4 + 1.4x TC (850mm total)

Sea Rim State Park was only six miles farther down the road, so I decided to make a quick visit, and I’m glad I did. I found this Spotted Sandpiper, Actitis macularius, a new bird for me, far away from the boardwalk. It was really too far, even for my long lens on a tripod, but I was so excited to see him I couldn’t resist – pardon the tiny crop.

Spotted Sandpiper spies something salty
1/2500 sec. f/6.3 ISO 640
Nikon D850 with Nikkor 600mm f/4 + 1.4x TC (850mm total)

His orange bill (he is the only sandpiper I’ve been able to find whose bill isn’t black, or mostly black) was radiant, back-lit by the late afternoon sun.

Cornell’s All About Birds describes the walking movement of the Spotted Sandpiper as tipsy, or teetering. But while I was watching, I didn’t get to see that – this one walked up and down the log with nary a wobble.

Splash!
1/2500 sec. f/6.3 ISO 640
Nikon D850 with Nikkor 600mm f/4 + 1.4x TC (850mm total)

The sandpipers I’ve seen so far probe the sand to find small animals. Who knew this one would be interested in plunging his bill into the water to capture prey?

The Spotted Sandpipers migrate over very long distances. This one may have wintered here along the coast, or may have already flown in from Argentina. They migrate north, finding breeding grounds along northern coasts, but also along a wide variety of inland lakes, ponds, rivers, sloughs, bayous, marshes, etc.

Unlike most other birds, the female selects the nest spots (plural) and defends them from trespassers. She usually mates with more than one male, laying eggs in multiple nests; the males accept the brooding responsibility and raise the chicks, regardless of who the father is.

Range maps from left to right: Willet, Savannah Sparrow, Hooded Warbler and Spotted Sandpiper, courtesy of All About Birds

Sea Rim State Park and the Sabine Woods Sanctuary couldn’t be more different. The Park has a long boardwalk without railing that circles out and back across the pristine marsh. The landscape is open and flat, and sneaking up on birds just isn’t possible. The Sanctuary offers broad open pathways that wander through the heavy shade past thickets, ponds, seeps, and between great towering trees. The paths also include some sunny meadows, but I left those for another visit.

I was excited by the beginning of our trip along the upper Gulf Coast to see birds in their spring migration – excited not only by the birds, but also by the opportunity to experience new birding locations. Our next stops would be in Louisiana, and I could hardly wait!

Author: Sam.Rappen

Retired from a major US manufacturer after 36 years of exciting work. Avid amateur bird watcher and photographer, and occasional blogger.

22 thoughts on “Migration Road Trip – East from Houston”

    1. Thank you, Takami! As urbanized as many areas are, we still have a lot of places that are being protected as natural reserves. And we are really lucky that so many birding locations are within driving distance. Hope your work eases up a bit and you get to go out to see some natural places – they are good for the soul.

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  1. Thanks for the info on Sabine Woods. We went there and noted the entry fee and decided to leave it for another day – we were losing daylight and if a place requires a fee (which if I remember was a bit steep), I want to make sure I have plenty of time to get the lowest IpS value I can. Nice shots of the Hooded – those Warblers are a nightmare for photographers as they tend to hand around in the floor of the woods (and have a very annoying super power of keeping something between them and the glass ugh). Congrats on the Spotted addition – one with nice spots even. Most of the time I see them in Texas they are not sporting those distinct markings and you have to look for the butt bounce – a shame you didn’t get a good luck at that as it would have put a smile on your face. Interesting enough, while I was reading your Sabine Woods account, I was thinking of Sea Rim as that is where were right before heading over there. I can’t remember what I found there, but I did enjoy my time there – think they might have even had a snake warming which got Linda all agitated ha. Oh, also neat to see the Willet its breeding cloak, very dapper. Can’t wait to read about the rest of the adventure – as a note, after 3 visits to Louisiana I have yet to get a +1 there.

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    1. You are right, Mr. Hooded danced all over that log – I could do a log study using all the photos I took that don’t contain a warbler. What a relief when he zipped up to that low-hanging branch!

      I do understand about your Investment per Species – keeping that as low as possible is a worthy goal, especially when you spot so many species each year! On the other hand, preserving these sanctuaries is also worth-while, and I’m always pleased to donate when the money seems to be being spent directly on the infrastructure of the sanctuary (drips, paths, benches, re-plantings, etc.).

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      1. I do like supporting wildlife endeavors when I can, but I want to make sure I have enough time to get my investment’s worth – leave no stone unturned as they say. We broke down and bought an annual pass that included Shaw Preserve outside of St. Louis this year – first day explored for 7 miles and then came back and did 11.5 miles before coming back with Linda for another 4 miles – now that is money well spent ha! (oh, and then we went over to the Botanical Gardens which was also included for free and spent over 4 hours there – those places are both huuuuge!) Count me in again for next year.

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  2. The cheniers are fascinating. I began learning about them because of another Louisiana Chenier; research on his name led me to the natural formations. I wonder if you might have been thinking about the hardwood hammocks that are part of the Florida environment. A National Park Service article about the Everglades says this:

    “A hardwood hammock is a dense stand of broad-leafed trees that grows on a natural rise of only a few inches in elevation. Hammocks can be found nestled in most all other Everglades ecosystems…

    Many tropical species such as mahogany (Swietenia mahogoni), gumbo limbo (Bursera simaruba), and cocoplum (Chrysobalanus icaco) grow alongside the more familiar temperate species of live oak (Quercus virginiana), red maple (Acer rubum), and hackberry (Celtis laevigata)…

    Because of their slight elevation, hammocks rarely flood. Acids from decaying plants dissolve the limestone around each tree island, creating a natural moat that protects the hammock plants from fire. Shaded from the sun by the tall trees, ferns and airplants thrive in the moisture-laden air of these hammocks.”

    Citrina is exactly the right word for that gorgeous bird’s color!

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    1. I think you are right, hammocks must have been what Wally wrote about. I remember thinking that the term was counter-intuitive, since it referred to raised ground, but the word evokes a drooping depression – maybe it more precisely references the depressions in the limestone eroded by the acidic plant litter.

      Loved your link to Clifton Chenier’s Cajun blues, a real winner, and very evocative of that area.

      The history that could be retold by the oaks on the cheniers is fascinating. Here’s a link to a short article about a family there.

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  3. What a wonderful beginning! The trip plan sounds simply awesome. My problem (as usual) would be not wanting to leave each spot. Not to mention whining about returning home.

    The Hooded Warbler is so startling with the contrasting yellow and black. Love the sandpipers and some of their unique habits.

    Looking forward to the next chapter.

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    1. So true. I consoled myself by saying I can come back to this one! I can do this one again!

      I was thinking about your post about a trip in Florida when you visited some elevated ground with a forest – was it a salt dome? I can’t remember. But in any case, the incongruity of finding a hardwood forest in the marshy flatlands is certainly exciting.

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  4. Fun bird behaviors and colors; that yellow really pops. And watching an impromptu bird bath is always fun. if the 600mm isn’t long enough on a tripod, I hear Nikon makes even longer ones. 😉

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    1. Heh. I wonder what’s the dividing line between a reeealy long lens and a telescope?? I have learned from several disappointments that the camera and lens can see much better than my eyes can… So, I keep shooting, and worry about figuring out the ID back in the digital darkroom. This one was a very happy surprise!

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      1. Funny you mention that. Most of our birding lenses are already as powerful as spotting scopes and as the same reach as 10x-12x binoculars. Our cameras help us keep what we see instead of just having to remember it. The scope I usesd during the eclipse is 2032mm f/10 and weighs about 30 lbs without the tripod. Your combo with the TC is nearly halfway there already.

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  5. Beautiful set of photos! I’ve seen a Hooded Warbler in my garden during spring migration in the past; such attractive birds and like most warblers, not so easy to photograph. Well done!

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    1. It’s one of those marvelous mysteries of the natural world – how do brightly colored birds stay hidden so well?? When the Hooded Warbler was standing on the log facing me, his quickly moving little face looked for all the world like a speck of dappled sunlight dancing across the forest floor. With his back to me, I was too far away to see his tail flashes, and the rest of that greenish-yellow plumage simply dissolved into the forest leaves. I would love to see these in my garden! Thanks for visiting, Tina, and thanks for your comments!

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    1. Somehow I never imagined giant Live Oak trees growing along the coast, only a mile from the ocean. Palms, yes, but oaks, no. I bet you see that up in your neck of the woods. Thanks for your comments, Ted!

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    1. Isn’t he stunning? I love the word in his binomial name, “citrina“, that references the bright lemon-yellow of the citrine quartz crystals. In plants, citrina usually refers to a bright lemon-yellow with tinges of green… which makes it a perfect name for this warbler. Thanks for stopping by, Cindy, and thanks for your comments!

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